Today’s service consisted of the following:
1. A light rate of slow release nitrogen fertilizer along with organic nutrients was applied to help bring your lawn out of winter dormancy. By applying light rates of fertilizer, the lawn receives the nutrients it needs without over-stimulating top growth, which could cause the turf to become susceptible to insects and diseases.
2. Pre-emergent crabgrass control was applied and under normal conditions, the barrier it creates will last all season. Heavy raking, digging or cutting too short needs to be avoided at all times, as doing so will break the barrier, while cutting short will allow the soil to heat up and let weed seeds germinate.
3. A liquid broadleaf weed control was applied today on a spot spray basis only. Broadcast applications are only done if the lawn has heavy weed pressure present. A sticking agent is added so the product adheres to the weed. This allows the weed control to still be effective should rainfall come after the treatment has been applied.
4. If needed, seeding and/or aeration were performed today on small areas using certified seed for sun and shade conditions. An additional charge may have been applied on larger sections if not part of your program.
5. __ Soil sample was taken and sent out for analysis. You will receive a copy of the analysis.
__Clumps of grass-disperse, remove or cut more frequently. __Cut short. Raise height to______”
__Grass is shredded. Sharpen blade, increase blade speed or cut more frequently.
__Lawn needs cutting. __Soil is too dry. __Soil is too wet. __Seeding needed-__Spring __Fall
__Lawn compacted-needs core aeration __Excess thatch-needs spring and fall core aeration
__Disease present and treatment was performed __Disease present-no treatment necessary as it is cosmetic and will grow out on its own.
To avoid possible skin or eye irritation, do not walk without shoes or allow children or pets to play on your lawn until the products just applied have been watered in. A sign has been placed by the curb to caution people that an application has been made. Please remove the sign after the lawn products have been watered in or after 72 hours, whichever occurs first.
- Should we be experiencing dry weather, watering in the application needs to be done to move the products down into the soil profile. Give the lawn a good soaking for approximately an hour per area being watered. If you have an automatic sprinkler system, you may need to reduce those times.
- If seeding was done, lightly water once or twice daily for the first month to increase germination results and allow the seed to fill in as quickly as possible. The key is to keep the soil damp. Lack of moisture will reduce results or even cause the young grass to die. Depending on weather conditions, you may need to water more or less frequently. Watering during hot and/or dry periods is critical for the new grass to survive through the summer.
- Established turf requires an inch of water per week – either from Mother Nature or you. If you have an automatic irrigation system, this will usually take 20 to 30 minutes per zone twice a week. Otherwise, mechanical sprinklers will need to run for about an hour or two per area being watered depending on your water pressure.
- Wait at least 24 hours after your lawn application was completed before the lawn is cut. It normally takes that long for the weeds to take up the application depending on the product used.
- Make sure the blade is sharp…PLEASE
- Continue to cut the lawn on a regular schedule, except in bare or thin areas that were reseeded. These areas should be left untouched for 3 to 4 weeks before cutting to help the new seedlings establish themselves. Make sure to cut only when the grass is dry so you avoid shredding the tips of the grass or pulling it out of the ground. Be sure to make your mowing contractor aware of any seeding that was done.
- Mow at the proper height…no shorter than 3.5” during the early spring growing period. My applications are SEVERELY reduced by cutting to short. Cutting short causes poor results and will damage or even kill the turf. During dry periods, raise the cutting height to 4 inches…MINIMUM. Mowing at the proper height will increase root depth and retain moisture, while helping to reduce weed and disease pressures. If you have a mowing contractor, please tell them about these procedures.
- Recycle or mulch grass clippings as they return nutrients and moisture back to the soil. Clumps of grass should be removed so as not to cause damage to the turf. Unfortunately, I see this all too often.
- Try to mow your lawn only when it is completely dry and alternate the direction. This helps prevent ruts in the lawn and also makes it easier on your grass, your lawn mower and especially you.
As always, I appreciate your business and the opportunity to take care of your lawn. The next application will be approximately 6-8 weeks from today and will include grub and weed controls along with another feeding of slow release fertilizer with organic nutrients.
Any questions or comments you may have are very important to me. Should you have either, please let me know.
“GIVE A WEED AN INCH”, “IT WILL TAKE A YARD”
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