Our customized fertilization programs work for you, not against you!
All lawns are not created equal!
Just like no 2 people are alike, neither are 2 lawns. Some need more attention, some need less. When it comes to feeding your lawn, the products that are used are best suited for the turf in this area, which is typically Turf Type Tall Fescue, Fine Fescue, Bluegrass and Perennial Rye grass.
Based on your lawns condition, it might be necessary to develop a program to address any problematic areas. Neglected lawns will usually require a more intensive program to get them back in shape. Once they become established, then nutrient applications would consist of the following:
- Early Spring: Low nitrogen slow release fertilizer to help avoid excessive spring growth
- Late Spring: A second round of slow release low nitrogen to help maintain color
- Summer: Low nitrogen fertilizer 100% non-burning slow release formulation
- Early Fall: Specially formulated fertilizer blend with Bio-stimulants to aid in
recovery from summer stress
- Late Fall: Lime application
Proper fertilization will help keep your grass healthy all year long. All lawns need nutrients to thrive, some more than others. The custom slow release fertilizers used contain zero
phosphorus. However, soils showing low levels of this nutrient will have it applied during the season. Also, at certain times, bio-stimulants are added to enhance soil fertility.
A soil sample of your lawn is taken and sent out for analysis initially when you become a client. Additional samples are then done every 3-4 years thereafter. For lawns that start out with major deficiencies, a follow up sample may be necessary to adjust applications in the future.
Soil testing is the foundation for any successful program. Rainfall or irrigation can reduce calcium and magnesium from your soil through leaching over time, thereby lowering your lawns pH to a more acidic level. Lime helps to reduce soil acidity (raises the pH level) making the soil more favorable for turf health. Applications are made to either increase or maintain pH levels based off of soil testing results.
Weed Control for Lawns
A heavy application rate applied in the early spring to control crabgrass is usually adequate. Thin or over watered lawns may need a second application to avoid crabgrass breaking through. Cutting your grass lower than 3” will also increase the chances of poor control. The sun penetrates the shorter canopy easier and this in turns lets the soil heat up and allows both broadleaf and grassy weeds, including crabgrass, to germinate. Therefore, the best weed control starts with a thick lawn that is cut at the proper height.
Pre-emergent can also used to control certain winter annual grasses and broadleaf weeds if the situation arises. However, these products need to be applied at the proper time and prior to any weeds germinating
Only applied where needed to control broadleaf weeds, grassy weeds and various other weeds on a “spot spray basis” only. Complete broadcasting is done only if absolutely necessary.
Insect Control for Lawns
Preventative Insect Controls:
Chinch bugs, sod webworms and grubs just love to feed on your lawn. While there are other potential damaging insects, these seem to be the three most common insects that we deal with in this area. Left unchecked, they can pose major problems.
Controls are applied for these insects in the late spring and early summer as a preventative measure. One application to control grubs will give season long protection under normal conditions. Surface insects such as Chinch Bugs and Sod webworms, in most cases, can be controlled with a single application, but is not guaranteed.
Thatch layers over 3/4″ may not allow the material to move to the desired location to control either of these pests.
Majority of insect damage shows up during the summer stress periods and can appear to look like a dry area or “Hot” spots. Unfortunately, in most cases, by the time you realize that it is insect damage you are most likely looking at a large expense in repairing your lawn.
It is my opinion that you prevent a potential problem from occurring, rather than running the risk, and the added expense of having to repair a damaged lawn.
Controls for diseases are only used in certain cases. The majority of diseases that we see are usually cosmetic in nature and run their course in a few weeks without any long term damage. Red Thread and Dollar Spot are the 2 most common but they only affect the leaf and not the roots, so control measures are normally not needed.
Preventative applications are an option if you want to go this route, but they need to be started prior to an outbreak. Treatments normally begin late April or early May and go through August. In order to be effective, ALL applications must be applied to have the best chance to work. Depending on the size of the area being treated, this can get expensive and still does not guarantee 100% control.